West Coast taster

No visit to the West Coast would be truly complete without bevvies and a meal in a local pub. West Coast pubs have pretty much remained true to their traditions — don’t expect fancy menus here, just good classic Kiwi pub grub.

The Woodstock Hotel (estab. 1865) is a popular locals’ haunt in the countryside near Hokitika. A survivor with a colourful history, ‘the Woody’ has been rolled around the road on beer barrels (from one site to another), served as a meeting place, post office and a morgue (yup). It inspired a craft brewery, serves great pub food and hosts the Hokitika Music Club on Sundays (250 Woodstock-Rimu Road). It pays to book your table.

On the road from Hokitika to pretty Lake Kaniere and right on the Wilderness Trail, the Kaniere Hotel (289 Kaniere Road) is an unassuming little establishment that harks back to gold mining days. It offers a toasty fireplace for colder nights, hearty Kiwi fare (including Sunday roasts) and budget accommodation. On Thursday nights, there’s live music or an open mic.

Looking for a good ‘ol knees up? Head to the Historic Empire Hotel, in Ross on the last Friday of the month. The last of the bawdy establishments that once lined the streets of gold-rich Ross, The Empire (19 Aylmer Street, Ross) is a golden survivor. Enjoy the roaring fire, full dinner buffets, Sunday roasts and meeting friendly locals. It’s just across the road from the Ross Historic Goldfields & Heritage Centre.

At the end (well almost) of the road north, Karamea’s legendary hospitality is worth going all the way for. A charming restored Victorian era establishment, the Karamea Village Hotel is a family affair that does award-winning cuisine (whitebait is a speciality), pub grub and seasonal fare. There’s also motel accommodation (141 Waverley St).

Quirky, arty, surrounded by nīkau palms and committed to doing things right for the environment, The Last Resort is a local icon with five accommodation styles, a licensed restaurant, café and a bar. The Last Resort café serves up coffee and café fare to eat in or take out; meet the locals at the bar or dine in at the licensed restaurant (71 Waverley St).

From a van into a yurt, then a café setting in the old cinema / dance hall at Market Cross, Vinnie’s Cafe has worked its way into Karamea’s local establishment. Owner Vinnie arrived 22 years ago for the weekend, and never left — hooked by this little town and its laidback lifestyle. Excellent coffee, amazing pies and toasted sandwiches!

Way back in 1868 — when men were men, life was hard, and pleasures were few — Greymouth had one brewery and 56 pubs, second only to Hokitika. Today Greymouth is still producing the goods with a couple of craft breweries and some fine establishments in town.

Greymouth is pretty much New Zealand’s original home of craft brewing, a story that began back in 1868 with an enterprising Stewart Monteith. Today you can visit the original Monteith’s brewery site (60 Herbert Street), take a tour to learn about the proud history, sample the wares, cosy up by the fire and dine in the café.

The Union Hotel (estab. 1889) is a classic old-style Kiwi pub. In the steady hands of the Toal family for the past 40 years, the Raceway Carvery is a popular local institution specialising in old-school, home-cooked dishes (free soup with mains). Get in early ahead of the regular queue at 20 Herbert Street.

Finally, two notable Greymouth establishments. For fine contemporary dining, don’t miss Sevenpenny (9 Tainui Street) inspired by an historic beer-drinking boycott when local publicans tried and failed to raise the price of a pint. Meanwhile, down on the waterfront in an historic building, Speight’s Ale House serves up another New Zealand classic brew. This beautifully refurbished red brick building is a smart gastro pub serving award-winning ales and modern pub fare.